Red Pink: Week 9

The work continues. I met with my fit model once again to troubleshoot some fitting issues with the pant pattern. Before I could complete the overall pattern, I needed to get the trouser block fitting correctly, so my model and classmate, Alyssa, was kind enough to meet with me over break. 

 There were some diagonal pull lines and sagging in the seat of the pants showing me that the first draft of the crotch curve was not quite right. Before meeting with Alyssa I laid the front and back patterns out at home and aligned the top of the inseams. 

Here I discovered one potential contribution to the pull lines in the back. With the front and back combined the crotch curve was coming to a point in the middle. I smoothed out the middle of the curve and trimmed away the excess on the pattern pieces. I ripped a few seams in the pants and made the same correction. 

That small correction seemed to help a little bit. At this fitting the overall pattern was in its beginning stages. The diagonal pull lines were still present in the back of the pants, but seemed less dramatic. I released a section of inseam stitches at the top to see if the crotch curve was pulling because it was too short in the back. In actuality, the back crotch extension was too long. It needed to be reduced by an inch and a half. Pulling the extra fabric in the seat of the pants forward corrected the diagonal pull lines. The front I could leave as it was.

I also remarked the front of the overall bib to reshape it, and marked the location of pockets on the front of the pant. I made the necessary corrections to the pant pattern, trued the side and inseams, and drew in the style lines for the gathered side detail and the front pockets.

Then I taped the pattern to my table, overlayed it with new pattern paper, and started to trace out the individual pieces for the front pant: pant front, pocket bag, pocket lining, gathered front insert. Later the pant front will be reworked to eliminate the two front darts, which will be absorbed by the pocket opening in the front. I've still got a ways to go to get everything traced, and make alterations to the shape of the bib. This will all be sewn up by next week for a final fitting on the 19th. Wish me luck!

Red Pink: Week 8

 This week, I made another set of basic bodice and trouser slopers for the second look, this time for my photography model. The first fitting was on Tuesday, just two days ago. From this fitting, I learned that the trousers would have to come in at the hips and waist, and that the bust point would need to move down and over, toward the center front. Moving the bust point down and over was an experiment in dart manipulation on the flat pattern. I tried a few different things.

  The correct bust point was marked directly on the mockup, so the first step was to copy the bust point onto the paper pattern. I was able to see my markings through the paper, so I laid the paper on top of the mockup and marked the location of the correct bust point onto the paper.

The first thing I tried was drawing in the left dart leg from the new bust point to the waist seam, and cutting the line up to the new bust point. Then I cut from the old bust point to the new, making sure the paper was still attached at the new bust point, and pivoting to open the new dart. This didn't really work however, because it was difficult to determine the new waist seam shape.

I taped it shut and tried again.

The second time, I tried moving the dart first to the center front and then opening the new dart location using the original bust point as a pivot point. For some reason, that method was confusing me, and I thought I was raising the new bust point.

I taped my pattern closed again, and drew a straight line from the new bust point, through the original bust point, all the way to the armhole. I cut the line and the right dart leg to the original bust point, and used it as a pivot to open a new armhole dart. Then I cut from the original bust point to the new one, marked and cut a new (angled) dart leg from the waist seam to the new bust point, and pivoted the armhole dart closed resulting in the open shape below. Looking back, this is the same open shape that would have occurred with the second trial, but it made a lot more sense to my brain this way. 

I filled the empty space with paper taped behind, trued the new dart legs to make sure they were of equal length, and reshaped the waist seam. Above I have folded the dart closed before cutting the pattern out so the seam allowance at the waist will have the correct shape.

I also needed to lengthen the bodice front and back (above). The back was a lot easier, as I didn't have to move the dart first. 

At the first fitting I drew directly on the prototype while it was on my model to get the neckline shape I wanted. I then laid the prototype pieces over the pattern pieces and used a tracing wheel to trace the changes onto the original pattern piece. 

I used the same method to make the pattern pieces for the overall bib and straps. Luckily I had thought to trace the first draft of the front bodice pattern before altering the neckline and shoulder seam. I needed those original lines to place the prototype piece correctly for tracing.

Above are photos of the front bib and strap pattern pieces. I decided to copy the new dart onto the front bib for a better fit around the bust. 

Turns out I overcorrected the back armhole, so I will have to come back out an inch. I drew on the prototype again for another round of pattern corrections. The back of the pants still have pull lines, so I will need to adjust the crotch curve on the back, and possibly the front as well. And I took in a little too much at the hips and waist, so I will let the side seams out a bit and use a larger seam allowance for any final adjustments. I also have yet to pattern the sleeve. On to pattern refinements!

week 8

 Week 8

This week I started the mock up of my 3rd ensemble. The ensemble is simple looking, but elegant in style. with a rich stretch velvet, a soft white scuba suede as the fabrications, and with embroidered details on the flared pant and bodice, this ensemble will satisfy your vintage desires.  

The pattern process was very simple, but the challenge was the grading to fit the size of my wonderful model Taylor.  I made a few alterations to the original design to best meet the wants of my model so she can be confident and comfortable.  I added a wide neckline instead of the high turtleneck, and added an invisible side zipper to the pant with a wide ring pull for ease when dressing. 

Here are a few pictures of me grading the pattern to Taylor’s size and also some of the only pictures I have  without my little furry helper. 

Lots of math….lots of fun.

More pictures of the grading… and Missy. 

Here I am placing my pattern pieces in a way that saves fabric and prevents fabric waste while Missy bathes. 

The final mock up with beautiful french seams. 

This is the flare pant mock up. I think the darts will need to be made bigger, but I will not know until I have Taylor try it on. I am excited for the godets, my plan is to embroider them for added style.

I accidently put the zipper in the wrong way. BUT! The inside looks amazing!  

CYRK: Transience in Bloom - Week 8

 

This week I started working on Ensemble 2. I have been focusing the majority of my attention on the skirt since the top is less dependent on fit. I decided to not have box pleats on the sides of the skirt to allow for a larger zipper opening for my model. I also want to have the pleats start higher than they currently are. 

Nicole: Week Eight

 Greetings!

This week I worked on starting the final for the second outfit after tweaking my mock up. To tweak it I lowered the neckline on the top and moved the circles down slightly so the neck has more room to move. The fabric is the same as the dress and I have that started to be pieced together and then the shorts pattern cut out in the final fabric to put together this upcoming week. Piece by piece it's coming together!

See you next week!

Week 8 Ensemble # 2

 I got my second ensemble for the show started. As I am happy with how it's coming together, I draped my fabric and got my pattern from there.

I then found fabric that would be the same as my final fabrics to make my mock-up, and it came out how I wanted it to.

The final garment will get a chain to hold the top around the neck, and then slits on the sides. 

VIER: Week 8

 

This week I’ve been working on my mockup for my second ensemble (pictured middle and far right). I had my model Avery come in to try both my first ensemble and second ensemble mock up on. I loved how she looked in the first one because I think her neck is longer than my SFA model Kya- so the high neck doesn’t look like it is choking her. The second look however, needs some work. I need to take in the dress about 2” and I’d like to flatten the bust because both my models have a smaller bust than the size 8 dress form. Overall, I feel like a got a lot of work done this week despite being sick.