Red Pink: Week 9

The work continues. I met with my fit model once again to troubleshoot some fitting issues with the pant pattern. Before I could complete the overall pattern, I needed to get the trouser block fitting correctly, so my model and classmate, Alyssa, was kind enough to meet with me over break. 

 There were some diagonal pull lines and sagging in the seat of the pants showing me that the first draft of the crotch curve was not quite right. Before meeting with Alyssa I laid the front and back patterns out at home and aligned the top of the inseams. 

Here I discovered one potential contribution to the pull lines in the back. With the front and back combined the crotch curve was coming to a point in the middle. I smoothed out the middle of the curve and trimmed away the excess on the pattern pieces. I ripped a few seams in the pants and made the same correction. 

That small correction seemed to help a little bit. At this fitting the overall pattern was in its beginning stages. The diagonal pull lines were still present in the back of the pants, but seemed less dramatic. I released a section of inseam stitches at the top to see if the crotch curve was pulling because it was too short in the back. In actuality, the back crotch extension was too long. It needed to be reduced by an inch and a half. Pulling the extra fabric in the seat of the pants forward corrected the diagonal pull lines. The front I could leave as it was.

I also remarked the front of the overall bib to reshape it, and marked the location of pockets on the front of the pant. I made the necessary corrections to the pant pattern, trued the side and inseams, and drew in the style lines for the gathered side detail and the front pockets.

Then I taped the pattern to my table, overlayed it with new pattern paper, and started to trace out the individual pieces for the front pant: pant front, pocket bag, pocket lining, gathered front insert. Later the pant front will be reworked to eliminate the two front darts, which will be absorbed by the pocket opening in the front. I've still got a ways to go to get everything traced, and make alterations to the shape of the bib. This will all be sewn up by next week for a final fitting on the 19th. Wish me luck!