This week wraps up the first ensemble, and begins creation of the second. We had model fittings on Tuesday, and it was a joy (and relief) to see this dress on real people, and flattering the figure as intended.
Patternmaking for the second ensemble is underway. This is a fancy overall design using 100% cotton, featherwale corduroy and 100% cotton lawn in "Strawberry Thief" print with a matching pullover shirt to wear underneath. Like the dress above, it will also have a front snap closure.
The patterning of this ensemble began with drafting a bodice and trouser block from scratch using the using a set of standard measurements closest to the model's.
After the first fitting, I copied the block, and then did some dart manipulation to move the fitting dart from the waist seam to the side seam.
The above photo shows moving the entire width of the dart, but in the end, I only moved half of it to the side seam. The rest became added ease around the waist, since the fit of the shirt is meant to be a loose pullover with some fitting around the bust, and minimal waist shaping.
Here I am sampling the shape of the neckline on the form, and then making alterations to the pattern.
The back of the pant also needed to be raised one and a quarter inches, so I traced a copy of the back trouser block to make those corrections to the pattern.
I was able to get the top put together in time for a quick try on the second fitting day. It's mostly fitting the way I want. The next step will be to move the shoulders in a bit and increase the cap ease. The shirt is able to be pulled on overhead without the use of a closure.
For the overalls I will need to use the information I gathered from the first fitting to make adjustments to the original bodice block. Then I will use the dimensions of the fitted block, combined with the altered trouser pattern to draft the overall pattern. I have two models for this look. One for photos, and the other for the runway! To be continued....
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